Banarasi is getting a Western makeover this wedding season

A fashion staple during festivities and wedding season in India is the Banarasi weave. Whether it’s a deep red silk Banarasi saree adorned with gleaming golden zari or a statement dupatta elevating a simple kurta set, a Banarasi creation can instantly make you look festive-ready with its regal appeal.
In recent years, Banarasi has made a return to menswear in a plethora of ways – kurtas, safas, shawls, bandhgalas, and sherwanis. Contrary to the common misconception, Banarasi was not limited to women’s wardrobes. During the Mughal era, when the Banarasi weave rose to prominence, emperors wore garments crafted using this exquisite traditional technique.
Now, Banarasi is undergoing another makeover, this time through a wave of Westernisation. Think of Banarasi in modish silhouettes like corsets, tops, pantsuits, and even short dresses.

Models in modern Banarasi skirts designed by Monisha Jaising.

“Banarasi has long been celebrated for sarees, dupattas, and kurta sets, but today’s shift towards modern silhouettes is making it a global statement,” says Khushi Shah, creative director of the label Shanti Banaras. The label, known for its authentic Banarasi handloom creations, is all set to venture into contemporary designs that appeal to a diverse, international clientele with their upcoming collection.
Designer Aditi Gupta, whose creations are available at Carma Ambawatta, believes that this shift is more about innovation than Westernisation, and the younger generation is to be credited for this refreshing version of the Banarasi technique.
“Today’s shoppers, especially the younger generation, are looking for pieces that blend heritage with functionality. They want garments that make a statement but also reflect their individuality and contemporary style. As a result, we’re seeing more demand for unique interpretations of Banarasi in experimental silhouettes, whether for festive wear or everyday luxury,” Gupta tells India Today.
While the Banarasi techniques remain rooted in age-old traditions in these new designer creations, the silhouette is reimagined with a contemporary touch. This modernisation trend was also evident at Lakme Fashion Week 2024, with an array of designers giving the traditional textile a fresh face.
Take, for instance, designer Monisha Jaising’s collection, which featured a range of Banarasi high-slit and asymmetrical skirts paired with dazzling blouses. Riddhima Kapoor Sahni, who turned showstopper for the designer, also walked the ramp in a strapless Banarasi gown. Moreover, the designer herself appeared in a sleeveless Banarasi crop top for the final bow.

Monisha Jaising (left) with Riddhima Kapoor Sahni at Lakme Fashion Week 2024.

Delhi-based designer Amit Aggarwal, known for his innovative creations, has also championed the modern makeover of Banarasi. His new collection, called The Banarasi Edit, is all about upcycling Banarasi textiles with modern interpretations of traditional draping styles.
Several celebrities, like Priyanka Chopra, Kriti Sanon, and Saba Azad, gave this trend a thumbs up at the inauguration of the Nita Mukesh Ambani Cultural Centre in Mumbai last year. They rocked various versions of Banarasi gowns at the fashion extravaganza.

Priyanka Chopra, Kriti Sanon and Saba Azad in modern Banarasi sarees at NMACC fashion gala.

And this trend is all set to soar further this year as more designers continue playing with Banarasi to create ensembles beyond the usual sarees and lehengas. Gaurika Rai of the textile label Warp n Weft unveiled a new collection in collaboration with House of Asra, celebrating modern women of traditional India with Banarasi mini dresses, maxi dresses, and corsets.

A striking blazer vest from Ekaya Banaras X 431-88 collection crafted from handwoven Banarasi silk.

“Naturally, people are always eager for something new, and it’s time to introduce a fresh fashion statement that redefines traditional spaces—one that upholds the authenticity of exquisite Banarasi textiles while embracing a modern allure. Launching a Western-inspired collection caters to those seeking more than the classic saree, suit, lehenga, gharara, or floor-length skirt for special occasions,” says Gaurika Rai, CEO, Warp ‘n Weft.

Banarasi dresses from Warp ‘n Weft X House of Asra collection.

Banarasi jumpsuits, trousers, and pantsuits are further adding the allure of Banarasi weaves to everyday wear. Simply wear a crisp white shirt with Banarasi brocade pants and pair it with basic heels—you can effortlessly take this look to work.

Banarasi brocade sets from GG by Asha Gautam (left and right), and Tarun Tahiliani (centre)

“These new silhouettes enhance the versatility of Banarasi textiles and open doors for international markets. By doing so, the Banaras weaving cluster also gains new opportunities to grow and thrive. When approached with respect for the craftsmanship and original weaving techniques, these designs can bridge generations, celebrating heritage while evolving to meet modern tastes,” adds Nishant Malhotra, CEO and founder, WeaverStory.
Though the timeless appeal of Banarasi sarees and lehengas is untouchable, if modern elegance is what defines your style, you should certainly consider adding a Banarasi modern touch to your wardrobe this wedding season.